Seed to Skein 2010 Dye Garden Project, Part II

“Nature does nothing uselessly”

 -Aristotle

Helianthus spp.,

Hopi Dye Sunflower, 2010.

Part II: Seed Germination

Spring thrives on future potential and the promise of renewal. Seeing established trees and shrubs wake up from dormancy, perennials push out from under the surface of the ground, flowers burst all over the place and seeds germinate...there is nothing more hopeful than this.

Often while I am working in my garden I find myself anticipating the following years, observing the garden change and mature; everything grows, everything dies. Deeply influenced by Masanobu Fukuoka’s The One Straw Revolution many gardens ago, I like to spread plants around, daffodils in the orchard with herbs and other perennials, annual and volunteer flowers scattered throughout every garden bed, mixing foods and flowers; paying attention to what grows well in my garden and in my dirt with my cycle of day to day living. This year I am working garden ground that is new to me. The dirt is clay loam, high in nutrients but it feels different in my hands. I am getting to know this garden ground.

New Garden Ground, 2010

With the benefit of a greenhouse or a heated seed starting frame I have been growing a wide variety of plants from seed for several years. One advantage to starting these dye plant seeds in pots is that I am able to clearly identify the dye plant seed when it germinates. At times when I have direct sewn seeds in the ground I have lost the seedlings because I was unable to distinguish them from weed germination. I find it important to be able to identify newly germinated plants and working within the confines of pots helps with this training.


This collection of dye plant germination photos are mostly within a couple days or a week of germination. Some seedlings are more developed; these photos are within a couple weeks of germination.

Reseda luteola germination, 2010.

Reseda luteola, 2010.

The germination process is mysterious. Life is pushing open, breaking the shell. Generally, there are two cotyledons encased within the hard shell of the seed. These are the food storage that supports the seed as it emerges. As the seed absorbs moisture the outer shell softens, eventually causing the cotyledons to swell, pushing open its encasement. The radial pokes out first, being pulled downwards by gravity. When the plumule emerges it pushes upwards. Think of yin and yang, black and white, opposite forces at work. Soon the radial makes rootlets (I love this word) and the leaves form on the plumule, the above ground part. Now the plant is independent of its food source. This process requires oxygen and moisture. Notice in some of the germination photos that the seed is still bound to the new leaf?

I love observing this process; it is life unfolding before our eyes!

Polygonum tinctorium germination, 2010.

Polygonum tinctorium,

2010.

Since Part 1 of the Seed to Skein 2010 Dye Garden Project there have been some discoveries to report. Reseda luteola, known as Weld, is the species needed for dyeing yellow. Reseda odorata is available in many plant catalogs as an ornamental, but it is not a dye plant. I had both kinds of seeds. The Reseda photo in Part 1 is Reseda odorata; Reseda luteola seeds look different but I planted all of them before I discovered my error; hence I do not have a picture of the difference. Cosmos bipinnatus is not a dye plant either. I have planted out these Cosmos simply for flower pleasure. Not all plants in a species will yield color. Yet, there are some, like Zinnias for example, where any of the species can be used. This is a really good example why Latin names are so critical. 

Alcea rosa, Nigra Hollyhock, 2010.

Admittedly, I planted old tansy and coreopsis seed and neither germinated. Coreopsis grandiflora is already a volunteer in our garden so I will utilizing it as part of the Seed to Skein 2010 Dye Garden Project. Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, on the other hand has been difficult to locate. I have finally come across a company that will begin taking orders again next week so I am still going to try to grow it from seed. Included in this seed order will be two more dye plants: Queen Ann’s Lace, Daucus carota, and Yellow Bedstraw, Galium verum. I did however successfully germinate Calendula officinalis, or Calendula, from old seed because I had found a reference to Calendula as a dye plant in Jenny Dean’s Wild Colour.

Calendula officinalis, 2010.

Dahlia, mixed hybrid, 2010.

To Date Revised SEED to SKEIN 2010 Dye Garden Project Plant List

(latin name, common name, dye colors, establishment, plant hardiness zone):

Alcea rosea, Hollyhock cultivars, yellow and pink, biennial, zone 5.

Calendula officinalis, Calendula or Pot Marigold, pale yellow to olive, annual, all zones. 

Coreopsis lanceolata, Coreopsis, yellow and tan, perennial, zone 5.

Dahlia, Dahlia hybrids mixed colors, yellow and orange, tender perennial grown as an annual, all zones.

Helianthus, Hopi Black Dye Sunflower strain, grays, annual, all zones.

Isatis tinctoria, Woad, blue, biennial, zone 3.

Polygonum tinctorium, Japanese Indigo, blue, annual, all zones.

Reseda luteola, Weld or Mignonette, yellow, biennial, zone 3.

Rubia tinctoria, Madder, red and orange, perennial, zone 4. 

Tagetes patula, French Marigold, yellow, annual, all zones.

Tagetes, French Marigolds, 2010.

Isatis tinctoria,

Direct seed, 2010.

Resources:

Heirloom Seeds web site:

http://www.heirloomseeds.com/

Johns, Hugh. The Principles of Gardening: The Classic Guide to the Gardener’s Art. Simon & Schuster, New York, 1979.

Seed to Skein 2010 Dye Garden Project, Oklahoma

Dye Seed Packets, 2010.

Dye Seed Packets, 2010

Part I: Growing Dye Plants from Seed

This year I am documenting my SEED to SKEIN 2010 Dye Garden Project. My goals include getting to know some new dye plants like Polygonum tinctorium and revisiting dye plants which I have grown in the other gardens like Rubia tinctoria and Isatis tinctoria. As I become more involved with natural colors I want to be able to clearly identify which dye plants are most suited to Oklahoma. It is important to understand how a plant grows and have a sense of the various characteristics of each species. 

Oklahoma has extreme weather conditions; we can go from flood to drought to tornado to ice storms within very short time periods. Summer temperatures often soar into the 100’s for weeks at a time and it does not cool off at night like it does in many other hot climates. These climatic hardships are stressful for plants, animals and people. So, why do we live here? That story unfolds the many years of trials and tribulations. Meanwhile plant lovers continue to battle the weeds, dig in the dirt, enrich the soil, mulch for nutrients and water retention, grow and harvest some amazing bounties.

Despite these climatic hardships Oklahoma can be a great place to garden and to live. Oklahoma offers a long growing season, generally from March through October and even year round for the ultra dedicated. Four plant hardiness zones, 6a, 6b, 7a, 7b with temperatures ranging from -10 to +10 degrees Fahrenheit, are represented in Oklahoma, making the variety of plants quite diverse. Plant hardiness zones are areas of average annual minimum temperatures. Plants and seeds are usually sold with an indication of their Plant Hardiness Zone. Contact your local extension office to find out which specific zone you live in or go to the US Forest Service web site to read their Plant Hardiness Zone Map:

http://www.fs.fed.us/wildflowers/nativegardening/hardinesszones.shtml

US Forest Service Hardiness Zone Map,

public domain, 2010.

There are many dye plants that can be grown from seed. Gardeners are great friends to have because we love to share plants and many of us save our seed from year to year. Following is a list of the plants I am growing for my SEED to SKEIN 2010 Dye Garden Project (latin name, common name, dye colors, establishment, plant hardiness zone):

Alcea rosea, Hollyhock cultivars, yellow and pink, biennial, zone 5.

Coreopsis lanceolata, Coreopsis, yellow and tan, perennial, zone 5.

Cosmos bipinnatus, Cosmos, yellow, annual, all zones.

Dahlia, Dahlia hybrids, yellow and orange, tender perennial, all zones.

Helianthus, Hopi Black Dye Sunflower strain, grays, annual, all zones.

Isatis tinctoria, Woad, blue, biennial, zone 3.

Polygonum tinctorium, Japanese Indigo, blue, annual, all zones.

Reseda luteola, Weld or Mignonette, yellow, biennial, zone 3.

Rubia tinctoria, Madder, red and orange, perennial, zone 4. 

Tagetes patula, French Marigold, yellow, annual, all zones.

Tanacetum vulgare, Tansy, yellow, perennial, zone 4.

Zinnia, Zinnia cultivars, yellow and tan, annual, all zones.

Coreopsis seeds, 2010.

Cosmos seeds, 2010.

Helianthus, Hopi Dye Sunflower seeds, 2010.

Isatis tinctoria, Woad seeds, 2010.

Polygonum tinctorium,

 Japanese Indigo seeds, 2010.

Reseda, Weld seeds, 2010.

Rubia tinctoria, Madder seeds, 2010.

Starting seeds indoors has always seemed rather troublesome to me. Once germinated, the fragile seedlings never seem to get enough light and the moisture is difficult to control. When the seeds are too wet there is a risk of “dampening off” which causes the new seeds to rot. A seed starting frame is the next best thing to a greenhouse and it is an ideal way to start healthy seedlings in the early Spring.

The seed starting frame is covered with glass and can sit outside on the ground in a sunny location, preferably facing south. The bottom is lined with sturdy hardware cloth, then covered with a layer of landscape fabric, preventing the sand from washing away. A layer of sand is placed over the cloth followed by a heating cable and finally covered with more sand. The seedling pots sit in the frame on damp sand. The seed starting frame provide good drainage and a warm, protected environment. The heating cable assists the germination rates and helps the new seedlings along past the last frost danger. When the days are warm and calm I lift off the glass windows which provide shelter from harsh climate changes like hard rain and even hail. In the late afternoon I cover the seedlings again for the night when the temperatures may still be too cool for the new seedlings. This is also a great way to start tomatoes, basil, eggplant and many other flowers and foods.

Seed Starting Frame with

 heating cable, 2010.

There are many books about gardening: what to plant, where to plant, how to start, soil types, irrigation, buying plants or seeds, composting, harvesting, diseases, pests, etc. Although many garden dye plants can be found in general gardening books, like marigolds and zinnias, there are few resources specifically designed for growing dye plants in the home garden. Rita Buchanan has two books that are imperative for any dye garden enthusiast, experienced or beginner: A Dyer’s Garden and A Weaver’s Garden (see Bibliography for detailed information). The last chapter in A Weaver’s Garden, ‘Creating a Garden’, and the beginning of A Dyer’s Garden provides helpful, in depth information about designing and starting a dye garden and the various attributes to consider before you start digging. Indigo from Seed to Dye by Dorothy Miller is a great reference specifically about growing Polygonum tinctorium, Japanese Indigo.

Although there are many reputable seed companies, dye seeds are hit or miss in garden catalogs. Latin names are vital for identifying the proper species of the plant that you are seeking. Weld is a good example of the importance of identification; Reseda luteola is the well known yellow dye plant but Reseda odorata is an ornamental that contains no dye.

Here are a few seed companies where I have purchased specific dye plant species: 

Earth-Arts (saved garden seed)

http://www.earth-arts.com/

Richters (Canadian)

http://www.richters.com/

Chiltern Seeds (British)

http://www.chilternseeds.co.uk/chilternseeds/index/

Pinetree Garden Seeds (Dyeing Herbs section)

https://www.superseeds.com/

Native Seeds/SEARCH (Native American dye plant and fiber seed) http://www.nativeseeds.org/

Johnny’s Selected Seeds

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/

Peaceful Valley (heating cable)

http://www.groworganic.com/default.html

Finally, I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to grow plants in appropriate locations that suit the cultural requirements of each particular species. Individual plants have evolved with specific conditions of soil and climate. As gardeners we try to provide these same conditions as closely as possible. This does not always mean that we follow exact directions on the seed packet. For example, many plants require full sun in zone 5, but in zone 7 they may need partial shade because the growing season temperatures are warmer and the sun may be harsher. Observe these qualities, characteristics and micro climates in your own garden to find the best placement for each species. Establishment of a species, whether it is annual, biennial or perennial and which parts of the plants will be harvested for dyeing will also determine where to plant each species. Some plants re-seed themselves abundantly, happily spreading volunteers all over the garden. This can be desirable or disastrous depending on the garden and the gardener. 

Happy Planting!